How to Sew Traditional Curved Hem on Skirts & Dresses
Traditional curved hems Tutorial
Here are a few clear diagrams of how to turn up a curved hem by hand. It can also be adapted to sew by machine using herringbone or blind hem stitch after the hem is basted and pressed.
If you want to use traditional techniques when sewing your vintage patterns then hems are sewn by hand. the time taken to get a beautiful curved hem will make your garment look tailored and professsional.
The first part of getting the perfect hem is to hang the dress ay least 24 hours after sewing before hemming.
Paneled skirts are cut on the bias. This means it will stretch slightly with the fabric weight over time.
Marking the hem with a ruler and chalk or attachment on a dressmakers dummy is the traditional way.
Another dressmakers trick when sewing alone is to tack a cotton string or coarse thread across an open doorway at the height you want the hem to be marked. Rub this string with tailors chalk. Try on the dress / skirt and keeping in normal standing position turn so the fabric rubs along the string. Easy and you will get marks dotted along the hemline. String may need re-chalking and do not forget to remove string straight away so you don´t trip yourself or others walking through the doorway!
There is more fullness in the edge of the fabric than the line the hem will be sewn.
start by basting with running stitch all waay around the hemline, barely 2mm 1/8″ longer than finished hem so it wil turn just on the edge on inside of the hem.
You need to very gently gather the excess fabric by basting a thread and easing the fullness around the skirt evenly.
Natural fibre fabrics are much easier to work with here than synthetics, be patient and find correct temperature to press man made fabrics, cotton, silk and fine wool are the nicest to work with.
Press the hemline with a cloth between iron and fabric. A barely damp cloth with give best results.
The traditional hand stitch taught in the 1950s was the herring bone (french is point de chausson).
This stitch overcasts the raw edge and is invisible on right side when done carefully.
It is important to press well before starting the hand stitching. Don´t press over the top edge of the hem or you may end up with a ridge on right side of fabric.
Take care to make sure seams are pressed open and folded carefully. Clip and trim bulky seams in the hem allowance if needed.
Remove the lower hand basting when finished.