How to Sew Pockets in Seams
In seam pockets
This type of pocket is most often seen in skirt or dress side seams and coats and jackets.
They are easy to master and useful to have in any garment.
Not vintage pattern in seam pockets can be shallow and narrow. Check size with a mock up before sewing.
Seam pocket
- For pocket cut as extension of garment, make all markings and place garment pieces right sides together. Baste whole of side seam. Machine seam, leaving gap for pocket opening between marks and reversing stitching at each end of opening. Remove basting from machined section and press seam open.
- Neaten stitched sections of seam. Baste the bag pieces right sides together. Machine sew round bag from top of opening, finishing about 5 mm/4 in below opening at bottom. Reverse stitching at each end. Trim edges of the bag a little and neaten together. Remove basting. Press pocket in correct direction for use.
- At each end of pocket snip diagonally into garment seam turning (on side pocket faces away from) to allow seam and pocket to lie flat. Loop stitch or overcast cut edges. On wrong side slip adhesive web 3 cm/14 in wide, and 1 cm/gin longer at each end than opening, into fold between pocket and garment. Press.
- To attach a separate pocket bag for seam pocket (to reduce bulk or economize on fabric), prepare as in (1) and baste pocket pieces to extending seam edges, right sides together, at correct position. Machine sew, remove basting, press open and neaten edges. Construct and finish pocket exactly as for an attached seam pocket (2) and (3).
