One Piece Underarm Gusset Sewing Tutorial

learn how to insert underarm gusset

How to insert a one piece underarm gusset into a kimono style sleeve.

This is the easiest way and gives neat, strong results with no stress!

Follow the diagrams and read the text… then watch the video. 

The gusset construction is a thought of as difficult and complicated but its really not as hard as it looks.

Practice first on a mock up or two.  The fit of the sleeve is so much better that you should learn how to make it.


learn how to insert underarm gusset

The shape of a one piece underarm gusset is a diamond or kite shape.

Note that on some Vintage patterns all four sides may be slightly different lengths and will need marking / notching so you position the gusset the correct way around in the garment. 

Edges are best stay stitched because they are cut on the bias.

Once you have practiced inserting a few you can choose how to neaten the raw edges. Pinking, narrow hem, rolled hem or binding. The weight and feel of the fabric determines how to finish the edges. 

one piece vintage kimono gusset

 On the pattern there will be a slash marking at the curve of the underarm. Mark this on the wrong side of the garment section.

learn how to insert underarm gusset

Cut strips of fabric to face this slash, approximately 2 inches wide and 1 inch longer than the marking. Pin and baste facing strip along slash marking, right sides together. Stitch, beginning at edge 4mm (1/8)  inch from slash marking and taper to the point. Take one extra stitch across point and stitch down other side. Slash on marking to stitching at point. 

Tum facing to inside and press flat. Pin and stitch underarm seams of bodice and sleeve, matching notches and faced edges ac­curately. Press seam open. Tum bodice to right side. 

This method avoids weak corners and fraying stitches and all your garments look smart and professional.

learn how to insert underarm gusset

Pin and baste gusset inside opening, right sides up. Lap faced edges of opening to seam line of gusset. Stitch gusset in position by top-stitching close to faced edge of opening. 

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