Basting & Notching Corset Panels
A brief Picture reference showing the corset panels basted to the middle linings before construction.
Cut the corset pieces, take car that they are accurate and both the linings and top fancy fabric layer match.
The fabric should have been pre-washed and lightly starched so it’s nice and firm and flat.
The seam allowance on this corset makes the boning channels.
The seam allowance is set ar 22mm so I am going to baste my pieces together at 19mm from the edge.
Its personal preference if you also want to baste the top and bottom edges, we only do that on very delicate dress fabrics
When sewing the bust curve, make sure that the second lining is turned back and pinned. You are not sewing the main coutil lining at this time.
The bust curve has the largest curve. On most sizes, it will need some notches in order to lay flat as it’s folded toward the center back. To keep the seam neat and smooth you can bond the seam allowance of the 2 panels with a strip of bondaweb, or sew the edges together 3mm (1/4″) from the edge.
This is the only seam we treat like this but it makes for smoother bone chanels and bustline.
Repeat measurements along the full bustline and lower hip edge.
The bust curve is usually the only seam we notch.
Make the notches the smallest size possible to allow the curve to ease toward the back.
You do not want huge notches that will show through as lumpy to the outside, the edges of the notches should meet as the seam is folded and topstitched.
Large sizes or corsets with a larger waist reduction may need more notches on other seams.
Continue to join the corset panels.
The center back panel should have the center back fold line marked in chalk or tailors basting stitches.
Once all panels are joined, pulling tension firmly take your first measure from busk waist level to the center back fold line.
The waist measure should be a maximum of 12mm (1/2″) longer than your finished waist.
When the seams are topstitched to the second lining the length will be reduced by this amount.
The final measure can be adjusted at the center back fold line.