Folding & Sewing Corset Center Back Line
Preparing Corset Centre Back For Eyelets
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Now you have the corset all stitched together its time to turn and sew the center back line and prepare for boning and eyeleting.
Slight adjustments can be made on the center back fold line to reduce the overall size, but note this must be done evenly. the line needs to be kept straight.
On the center back panel fold the lining back and make your final measurement along the waistline. Mark the fold line with tailors chalk or better a line of basting stitches.
Trim the centre back edge of the coutil lining about 4mm 1/8″ and pin edges so the main lining will seem slightly too small and pull slightly.
This picture shows the original pink basting in the coutil, which has now moved 4mm 1/8″ toward centre back. This can now be removed.
Pin or baste through all layers and sew a single line to join the three layers about 3mm 1/16! away from your fold line.
Note the lower edge of corset, the black lining is smaller than the main corset.
When the end is folded over this will make the coutil lining stay taught and be perfectly flT.
Cut a reinforcing strip the length of back line. the strip will be the width of your 2 supporting bones and the row for your eyelets.
trim the end of the coutil lining again approx 10mm -3/8″
sew the strip in place over the same line your sewed the linings together.
neaten the raw edges by folding over and sewing them down. We don’t fold over the reinforcing strip but just butted up, this adds less bulk.
Now fold the strop over on the fold line. If you have got the right amount of tension on your coutil lining the back panel will be perfectly flat and the coutil lining will have zero wrinkles or bagging. This is essential as the coutil lining is your strength.
Pin or uses mini fabric clamps to hold the turned section and turn to right side.
Mark the lines for your bone channels.
Sew the inside line furthest from edge first to hold the strip in place.
Then sew the other two lines, forming the bone channels either side of your eyelets.
The corset is now read to attach the lower binding, then bone insertion and complete the top binding.