How to Sew a Jetted (doubled Welt) pocket

Jetted or double welt  pockets.

Jetted pockets are also known as double welt or even double piped pockets

This type of pocket is most used on jackets, waistcoats and inside coat pockets.

They are mostly used to lightweight items such as hankies, tickets, coins etc.

how to sew a double piped pocket
  1. Mark pocket opening on garment. Cut two fabric strips (called jettings) on straight grain (or true cross for special effects) 3 cm/ 1 in wide and at least 5cm/2in longer than pocket opening. Use traditional interfacing starched or modern press on paper-backed adhesive (Bondaweb /wonderweb) to cover whole of wrong side of each jetting. Peel off paper backing from adhesive strip.
jetting pocket tutorial
  1.  Fold each jetting in half wrong sides together and press. Trim to twice desired width of finished jetting. Beginners should practise making jettings so that they are as narrow as possible.
  1.  On wrong side of garment press down iron-on interfacing 5 cm/2 in wide and 4 cm/11in longer than opening. On right side centre jettings against line of opening with raw edges touching. Baste in position and hold their raw edges together by over-sewing across them. This prevents the jettings pulling apart in later stitching.
sewing vintage pockets
  1.  Using chalk, mark length of pocket opening accurately across jettings. Machine along centre of each jetting exactly between marks, starting and finishing at centre of each to give a double row of stitches. Cut off thread ends. Remove basting and the over-sewing between jettings.
  1.  With garment wrong side up, cut between rows of machining to within 1 cm/ 8 in of ends and then cut out diagonally to ends of rows of stitching.
  1. Push jettings through to wrong side. Hold folds of jettings together by over-sewing on right side. Tuck triangles of fabric at each end of pocket opening back between garment and ends of jettings. Press from both wrong side and right sides. From right side stab stitch across ends of pocket.

7. Cut a fabric strip on straight grain 4 cm/11 in wide and 5 cm/2 in longer than pocket opening. On wrong side of garment place top edge of strip level with raw edges of upper jetting.

Baste raw edges together. Machine sew just above machine stitches joining jetting to garment.

Remove basting. To finish, see pocket bags.

8.  For each pocket bag lining, cut 2 rectangles wide than length of pocket opening, plus a hem turning top and bottom of pocket bag. 

To hand sew Fold top edge and baste into position.

To machine sew, baste and fold main garment out of way and sew to jetted welt.  Fold pocket lining back down.

9. PPlace 2nd pocket bag right side down over first. Baste to top jetting / welt and then machine sew to top edge of top jetting /welt. 

The picture shows the pocket bag lining with top piece in main garment fabric so that shows through pocket slit and not the lining.

This is optional but the professional tailored way to make them.

10.  To finish a packet bag level pieces square and even- baste then trim length and sides if the edges are uneven.

Mark final seamline with chalk or pen, fold main garment out of the way then machine stitch as close as possible to original machine stitches at pocket end. 

To make a secure double strength seam, sew a second row of stitches 1/4″ 5mm outside first row. This ensures no holes wearing in the pocket seams.