Sew a Simple Contrasting Cuff Turn Up

mrs maisel sewing tutorial

This type of turn up can really help add interest and contrast to your vintage garments

Learning how to Sew a Simple turn- back  does not need an extra pattern piece. Often vintage patterns will expect you to know the many ways to finish a sleeve and don´t give specific instructions.

Dresses of the 1950´s are often finished this way with contrasting fabric.

Its very simple and effective to sew a simple reverse cuff turn up on your 50´s dresses.

Cut out the cuff the depth you want it using the bottom of sleeve for a guide if there is any curve or flare to the sleeve it needs to be matched. . The piece will be on the outside therefore you need to cut it slightly wider than the main sleeve so it has enough ease to sit smooth and not wrinkle the main sleeve.  As usual make aa mock up and baste to test.

Starching the new cuf or lightweight interfacing on very light fabrics will give it some substance to hold shape.

Sew right side of cuff to the WRONG side of main sleeve, matching underarm seams.

Sew the new cuff piece at the underarm seam and press open. align to main sleeve and sew edge. clip / notch seam if needed and turn cuff back.

The top edge of the reverse cuff can be simply turned under, pressed and sewn either with a bias seam tape,  which will help it retain a good shape and not wrinkle,  or a simple narrow seam if fabric stiff enough. 

The lower edge of sleeve has nice neat finish and the turn-up adds detail and contrast to the outfit.

Showing the turn-up standing free of the sleeve when finished.

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