How to Sew Professional Tailored Single Welt Pockets

This tutorial is for sewing professional tailored Single Welt Pockets.

I have provided a free template to download in the link button.

A few things to remember:

  • Set your sewing machine to a small stitch.
  • Practice a few times before moving onto your good fabric!
  • Always starch the welt fabric and apply interfacing if needed.
  • The back of the main garment fabric should already be interlined – if for any reason you have not done this you MUST at least interface back of his pocket area.
welt pocket tutorial

1. Mark and cut pocket welts accurately from the paper pattern. Starch and apply interfacing if needed.

Lay welt on a single layer of pocket lining (right sides together) and sew along the edge as shown.

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2. Turn the welt up and top-stitch the lining with a seam allowance towards the lining.

welt pocket pattern download

3. Fold the welt over and stitch the side seams as shown.
ONLY sew to the edge of the lining piece, NOT onto the lining.

Snip top corners carefully and turn welt through and
poke corners and press.

4. This is how the welt now looks from right side.

5. This is how the welt now looks from wrong side.

6. This is how the first piece looks as sewn to the right side of the vest.

Turn the welt down so its in sandwiched between the lining and vest.

You will be sewing along the top edges of the seam allowance.

7. Mark the pocket position onto the right side of the vest front. If your fabric is likely to fray I apply a fray stop (PVA) to the inside of this marked space.

If doing this be very careful and allow it to dry and do not allow it to spread over the edges.

8. Pin the piece with welt sandwiched between the lining and vest and sew along the lower line. 

Make sure to just sew below the stitch line so it won’t show when the pocket welt is turned up the right way.

Fold the lining back down over the welt and lay the second lining Stitch the second ling along the upper line, approx 10 mm above the first row of stitches.

This line is shorter and this is important to do exactly as shown.

9. If you haven’t fray checked before sewing I would at least do corners no before cutting.

Now cut through the waistcoat front along the line shown and into the corners.

10. Turn the pocket through and if the corners have been snipped accurately the welt will completely cover the pocket opening.

11. The pocket linings now need sewing together.

Arrange so the linings lay neatly, pin if desired.

12. Fold the main part of the vest out of way and sew pocket linings together close to the edge of the pocket welt, using a zipper foot will make this easier so you can get close to the edge.

Repeat on the other side.

13. Fold vest out of way and sew pocket lower edge together last.

I always sew lower edge twice so you will not get holes in the pockets ever!

14. On right side press behind the welt and sew edges of the welt to vest front as shown in the diagram.


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