If you want a 1950s shirt dress sewing pattern with a bit more character than the usual button-through style, this 1952 robe chemisier from Femmes d’Aujourd’hui is a lovely one. The button-front bodice, lapel collar, defined waist, ¾ kimono sleeves and slim skirt give it a smart, polished line, while the large patch pockets and front box pleat stop it feeling too severe. It is practical enough for daywear, but has enough shape and detail to get noticed.

The original magazine described the shirt dress as a wardrobe essential, and this design was meant to change character with the fabric. In ottoman or heavier silk it could be dressier; in plain, checked, striped or tartan wool it became more sporty and everyday. That same idea still works now. Lightweight wool would keep the original feel, but woven linen, cotton with around 5% Lycra or spandex, or even a medium-weight scuba could all give very different modern versions. I normally lean towards natural fibres, but scuba has its place when you want a fitted vintage silhouette with more comfort and recovery.

This is a basic to intermediate vintage dress sewing pattern. You should be comfortable making a mock-up, sewing a button placket, working a simple lapel collar, marking accurately and putting a fitted dress together in the right order. The kimono sleeves use underarm gussets, which can look more complicated than they really are. Once you understand how the gusset works, it is a straightforward piece of sewing, and you avoid the job many sewists dislike most: easing and setting a fitted sleeve head.

The original size 46 is drafted for a 40½ in (103 cm) bust and 33 in (84 cm) waist, which is larger than many surviving vintage patterns of the period.

What makes this 1952 day dress worth sewing is the balance. The slim skirt, kimono bodice and bold pockets give it a clean, confident shape that still feels wearable now. It can look smart, practical or quite striking depending on the fabric, which is probably why the robe chemisier became such a useful part of the early-1950s wardrobe.